Adventure Borneo

After a scenic two-hour bus ride to the south of KK, we are brought to the quiet town of rural Beaufort for the....

Proboscis Monkey River Cruise and Fireflies Tour

Prior to departure, we were able to grab a booking through Nasalis Larvatus Sdn Bhd, Riverbug and Traverse Tours via their Philippine contact Ms. Mhay Rondael (Mobile: +639172085317). I hate travel agencies simply because they have nothing better to do than capitalize on the dumb tourists. I am very satisfied to know that there are tour operators that can still be highly trusted. Mhay was a great contact, her replied email took less than a day and service was absolutely excellent. She even gave us some tips on our Kota Kinabalu trip.

The "Proboscis Monkey River Cruise and Fireflies Tour Itinerary"

1330 hrs: Depart From Kota Kinabalu for Beaufort, two hours overland to the Southern part of Sabah. (It was a scenic route of mountains, towns and rice fields.)

Garama Camp

1530 hrs: Arrive at Garama Base Camp some few kilometers away from the busy highway and are being transferred to the mangrove swamps forest filled with their own distinctive busyness and beauty. (There was some time to have some tea or coffee with a few Malaysian rice cakes and sweets.)

Boat ride

1600 hrs: On board a fiberglass boat for 1 hour river cruise in this red river (effect of tree’s tanine) surrounded by mangrove trees. Proboscis monkey can be spotted most of the time in the trees feeding on young leaves, shoots, sour fruits and seeds. Among others, you will have the opportunity to observe Macaque, the rare Silver Languor, Water buffalo crossing the river and variety of birds. You may also witness sunset while cruising back to the river lodge. (Consider yourself lucky if you see the rest of the animals BUT spotting the Proboscis is more than enough).

Only in Borneo



Proboscis Monkey

Alpha-male & Harem

Monkeys at play


Water buffaloes and friends

1800 hrs: Upon arriving at the lodge, a sumptuous BBQ dinner served in buffet line to satisfy your hunger after the river cruising. (Actually it was a Malaysian buffet, which must have been better than a Western meal).

1830 hrs: After dinner, a short walk to the viewing deck to catch the glimpse of fireflies decorating the mangrove trees like a Christmas tree. After 10-15 minutes of firefly watching, it’s time to head back to Kota Kinabalu.

2100 hrs: Estimated time of arrival in Kota Kinabalu.

Jesselton Point is the main port to Tunku Abdul Rahman Park (TAR). Expect to pay for additional fees. Speed boat operators show 16 Ringgit for a ride to the island and back, but are kind enough to let you know that you must add 6 Ringgit for tax and another 10 Ringgit for admission fee before entering each island.



Pulau Sapi: is said to be the best island for snorkeling when in TAR. Although it does have a coral garden of some sort, the claim is only being said probably because it needs its marketing banner for tourists.

Manukan island: is one of the most developed islands around TAR with overnight lodging available. Dubbed as a 'must-see' in the tourist itinerary. We must always be reminded to keep our expectations low as snorkeling in this island is horrible with what dead sea corals and colorless marine life it offers. The island is over populated with day-trippers, to say the least, so choose another pulau if you prefer some solitude.

Four out of the five islands in TAR have piers and each one boasts its unique set of resident fishes who have developed communities and have found a sanctuary close to the wooden stilts. These spoiled cold-blooded animals gather in schools waiting for their next meal and scramble for tossed bread.

Fish Feeding

To make up for the lousy snorkeling sites and overabundance of other tourists, have yourself a good meal by the beach. Pulau Manukan has sumptuous offerings in two buffets and an a la carte menu you, your palate and your wallet can choose from. The Grill & BBQ buffet at the far end of the island puts up an intimidating if not exciting array of fresh seafoods, meats and vegetables all for grilling and BBQ-ing at a hefty, touristy price of 60RM for the hefty touristy diner.

The 28RM (+/-) buffet by the restaurant offers a more humble but competitively appealing layout of food playing on Malaysian-Southeast Asian-Indian cuisines while the a la carte menu, from which we chose from, allows you to customize your own meal with the variety of offerings while allowing you to still keep in mind your budget and appetite. Lunch had us some divine chicken satay served with savory rice cakes and refreshing zucchinis bites, a few tasty vegetable samosas and some squid and prawn fritters. A satisfying and filling lunch, which could only lead to the inevitable -- a nice short nap on the next island on our itinerary.

Pulau Mamutik: is probably the best island in TAR. Snorkeling is great even with exciting currents to make skin diving a great exercise. It is the least populated yet is developed enough, accommodating a food stall and scuba center. In addition camping is allowed in this Pulau. Trees along the stretch of fine sand provide shade for an intoxicating afternoon nap. After lunch, there is nothing but whispers from the wind, hypnotic buzzes from insects and a calm crash of waves on the distance. Spending an entire day is highly recommended.

There are many other eco-adventure activities to do in Borneo, Mt. Kinabalu alone takes 3-days off the itinerary. Other attractions include Orangutans over at Sepilok, dips in the Poring Hot Springs, a scenic old-school train ride, white water rafting, diving in Sipadan, and the list goes on.

Borneo surely is a haven for nature-lovers and nature freaks -- from newbies to hobbyists to extreme seasoned challengers. With all that Borneo offers, almost everyone can find any eco-activity suited to one's liking and fancies, and KK is definitely the city you'd want to jump off from and end with your Borneo Adventure.

triptayo Sabah-Borneo was done last April 27 - May 1, 2007
more photos here and here

KOTA KINABALiUw

Lowcost airlines open gates to find new treasures.

Kota Kinabalu (KK) in Sabah, Malaysia is a short two-hour flight via budget airline Air Asia from the Diosdado Macapagal Airport in Clark Airbase, Pampanga. Short flight, but not quite easy. Air Asia only flies out from Clark, so that in itself is kinda out of the way if you're from Manila. Second, the taxes from that airport amount to something around Php 2,500 per person. Ghastly. Third, the airline only allows for free-seating, which can only translate to a messy elbow-bumping, face-smacking scenario for us harried Filipinos. Also, meals or snacks don't come complimentary so either you stuff yourself silly prior the flight, or shell out bucks to buy what food is offered in the airline carts. Fifth, you can't really expect much from a budget airline's fly-in fly-out route, so there's hardly enough time to clean up the garbage and tidy up the seats from the previous flight, and this is evident in the not-so clean leather seats with remnants of candy wrappers tucked in the creases. So if you're that particular, bring out the wet wipes and smother on some much-needed cleanliness in that leather seat you elbow-bumped for.

Upon arrival, a nice, clean and modern airport welcomes travelers and tourists. A delightful change from that of Clark's. Cabs are easy to come by once you step out of the terminal, that's if you don't already have your hotel's pick-up service waiting on you, signboard in hand. KK Airport isn't too far away from the city center, give it 15 minutes and you're bound to be in your hotel already, given of course that your hotel of choice is just in the main city.

KK is an all too-familiar city for Southeast Asian dwellers, or at least for us Filipinos. The city is reminiscent of Malate, Manila, or even Davao (or so we've heard) with its old town charm and busy streets. The city center is small, so everything is in walking distance which makes the city even more lovable.

KK locals start their weekend habits with a morning visit to one or two (or three!) of the city’s string of street markets. Check-in in any hotel or tourist lodge and you’re bound to be just a stone’s throw away from any lively street market.

Asia City’s small open market starts your morning off with warm Malaysian smiles inviting curious on-lookers to try their local rice cakes and colorful pastries. Some stalls seem to be family-run as mother-daughter, father-son teams operate their small weekend morning businesses. Food is mostly offered in Asia City’s Market as the stalls are vibrantly alive with rainbow colored pastries, delicious smelling buns and tempting breads, fresh vegetables and fruits, and fresh fruit shake stands. A few booths sparkle with locally produced trinkets, accessories and straw hats.

Asia City delights

Gaya Street right near Jessleton Hotel holds the Gaya Sunday Street Market where the street is closed off to vehicular traffic and opens its welcoming arms to enthusiastic and raring pedestrian shoppers. Gaya is a loooooooong street where it holds all sorts of scents, sights and stimulants. From domestic pets like cats, gerbils and turtles to vibrant artworks of batik fabrics and hand painted masks, more trinkets and accessories, potted flora and fauna, more food and even more food, to the usual designer rip-offs like watches, wallets and sunglasses.

KK is a great place to go food tripping that it deserves a whole other blog post (naturally!). Although the city is not the type one would get lost in with the hopes of a great find, it still plays host to an array of dining choices. Easy to fall in love with, this bay city is a great place to relax over some tea or coffee in quaint little corners. Places and establishments like Warisam Square across the Waterfront Esplanade area is best for this afternoon or evening delight. However be warned that commercial capitalists like Starbucks and Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf have already taken over KK. Nonetheless an easy walk around the area will bring you to find those charming local cafes.

The City Mosque, which was built to give the impression that it was floating above the waters of Likas Bay, is a splendid sight to see in the evening. We hear that it's much more gorgeous during sunset as the vibrant shades of the sun reflect on the calm and sprawling man-made lagoon, giving the viewers a majestic and commanding display of colors which only glorifies the grandeur of the Mosque itself.

Hamin Lodge is the perfect place to stay for the budget traveler who seeks sanctuary in accommodations. Newly opened, this boutique lodge offers room options, like queen-size beds for couples, to bunk beds for friends to dormitory type rooms for backpackers. Some rooms have their own toilet and bath while a common T&B is located in each floor.

With a wonderful sense of style and close attention to detail, Hamin has turned itself into a welcoming oasis from the busy local life surrounding it. And just like its character, the people from Hamin Lodge are simply the best. They will accommodate questions, requests and even give favor to their guests. Prior to departure, exchange of emails and initial deposits went by like a breeze. One rule of thumb we have come to understand based from past travels is that, speedy and accommodating responses are a great sign of service. Hamin easily passed with flying colors.

Hamin's balcony

triptayo KK was done last April 27 - May 1, 2007
more photos here and here

Seeking Buddah in Ayutthaya

First, visit the King's Grand Summer Palace.

cross the bridge (back in the day, men had to walk on the other side of the bridge, slipping letters and notes to women through the jalousy slits.)

Check out his gifts from other nations

Now relax, recline and head on to Buddah's enlightenment stages

Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol

Make sure to visit Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Two Buddahs + 3 spires

Visit Mr. Wat Phra Mahathat and marvel at the vast well preserved architecture around Him.

Finally, seek blessings over at Wat Panan Choeng



and allow Buddah to descend enlightenment.

*Ayutthaya is the best place to visit near Bangkok and only an hour's ride outside the city. We opted to rent a van for 3,000 Baht and pay an addition 1,000 Baht for a tour guide. Budget in numbers makes this the sweetest deal amongst all the options I had in my previous post. More information on the city can be found here and here.

*more photos here and here.

Balderdash-ing in Bangkok

It's what lies beneath when entering the city of Bangkok.

Just like any emerging Asian city, the so-called "Venice of Asia" is one huge concrete jungle.

Traffic is a headache, pollution plagues the lungs and heat is a b*tch.

For a country whose second biggest economic resource is tourism, I was surprised to experience that most people lacked basic English communication skills. We stayed in Baiyoke Sky hotel, a hotel equates to tourists, but here all then can give you is one big jaw drop. "You are supposed to reply. Do you un-der-ssstand the wordssss co-ming ooo-ut of myyyy mou-th?" It's rude to stare, what more than to open your mouth. Am I supposed to deposit something inside?

We flew via Thai Airways. Marketing is one huge lie, what hospitality and service are they talking about? To and from Manila, not once did I see a fight attendant genuinely smile. In the city, restaurant service is not impressive, besides an obvious language barrier, servers fail to smile but make it a point to open their mouths once more and stare.

The Tuk Tuk is an icon associated with Thailand. Dude, wake up and smell your chili. Hotels put up signs warning tourists to stay away from Tuk Tuks and travel books publish against this form of transportation. Best way to get around the city is via taxi. Make sure the meter will be in use and if desperate haggle and agree on a fixed amount.

But for what it's worth, Bangkok is a great place to get lost in transportalation!

Bangkok is cheap and frolicking is the way to go.

Let the pictures be a testament to the sparkling finds in this city's amazon.

Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

Asia has the best religious and cultural art. Head on to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, one entrance, two great sites worth your 250 Baht. The details on the art can be over whelming with its intricate wonders of expression.

Temple Guards

The standing Buddah temple

The seated Buddah of Traimit

More works of art

Boutique dining
Head on to Th Khao San after you've had your temple Wat fill.

Soi is a small narrow street or what is also called a sub-street. Th Khao San is arguably the liveliest street in Bangkok, the so-called backpackers area. Lined with restaurants, bars, vendors and what have you, exploring away to its small streets and alleys will not fail. One Soi had this quaint resto and boutique shop owned by a local fashion designer. It's Happened to be a Closet. Superb interior, thumbs-up on the food, but consider this a bit pricey with dishes starting at 250Baht to 750Baht after you have been spoiled from scrumptious 100 - 150 Baht authentic Thai cuisine.

squid ink bread - pasta & scallops

Right beside the closet, there is an Internet Cafe with 60's, 70's interior that creates a lounge feel for its guests. A perfect place for low or high tea, which ever time you prefer. There are two other eclectic designed hole-in-the-wall restos that grab attention, which I have failed to try out.

I can spend the entire day in this location alone. It's hard to miss. Just look for the sub-street leading to a court yard looking area.

Although my Lonely Planet yellow bible was very helpful, experience taught me not to depend on the book when it comes to food establishments. Went to the exact address listed but there was no such eatery, the name was probably changed to Cafe Primo. The other had a contact number but to no avail and locals have never heard of the Pickle Factory. The vicinity map of Khao San helped me plot out some restos. But at 10PM, if your cab has a typical Bangkok-taxi- driver-ass who decides to drop you at the avenue next to Th Khao San, what seemed to be a plausible 500-800meter walk (according to the Asia in a Shoestring guide) to Hemlock, is a busted myth.

Luckily, just like finding an oasis on a dessert of ghetto mayhem, Mayompuri was the perfect find.

When you hit Th Khao San's dead end, make a left, walk for a minute or two, it's there! Now eat, dine, drink and relax. Dishes were between 100Baht - 250Baht. Yummy!

When done with comfortable dining and seating, head on to Khao San's artery for some street food such as insects, worms, Pat Thai and Ya Ki So BA. Some art works pop out as well but do not mind shopping for clothes and wait until the weekend for the mother father of Bangkok's shopping destination.

In the Chatuchak Weekend Market if you bring around 5,000Baht for clothes, you will have a large problem finishing it off. An open-air market, reeking of teen spirit and trash, packed with a frenzy of mindless pedestrians along with the sweltering scorch that creates a natural sauna will not stop one from a 6-hour shopping spree. I barely shop, but shirts that cost 100-250Baht maximum is just too hard to pass. You'll see. Be sure to have this map handy.

Ping Pong in Patpong is another tourist destination. Surprisingly, people and couples regardless of age, race or religion gather around some dimly lit room, Asian brothel style. Our tour guide brought us there to prove that the legend is true. For 500Baht, it turned into a bottle opener, shot darts, blew candles, puff puffed on more than 3 cigarettes at a time, drew on paper, strings and blades were pulled out from it and finally, drank clear water and then out came coke.

Bangkok is a city that can boast many spectacular finds. Spending 4 - 5 days following the itinerary I made, posted here, is more than enough. It can be a vacation but not really for the R & R type.

Walk, explore and GET LOST! Bangkok is a city where discoveries become a euphoric reward!

*more photos here, here and here.
April 5 - 9, 2007

5 day itinerary for Bangkok, Thailand

Day 1 (Thursday)

Evening

Dinner

Banglamphu Area: central ghetto backpacker's area

Hemlock (dishes: 80 – 200 Bhat)

- eclectic menu: dishes not easily found elsewhere

- miang kham: tea leaves wrapped with ginger, shalots, peanuts, lime and coconut flakes

- phrik khaa: spicy dipping sauce served with vegetables and herbs

Aperitif

Baghdad Café

- Sheesha bar

Night out

Sunset street

- This is where the Thai crowd comes to party

Notes

Th Khao San (street): main travelers' center

Day 2 (Friday)

Day trip to:

Ayuthaya

- ruined ancient city

- Unesco World Heritage site

- Former Thai capital

- River surrounding the entire city creating a moat-like natural barrier

Transportation

- take tour package (approx. 1700 Bhat)

- take bus (approx. 64 Bhat, 2 hours)

- take mini bus (approx. 45 Bhat, 2 hours)

- take train (3^rd class approx. 15 Bhat, 1 and ½ hours)

- rent a van ($150 for 8 hours)

Tour package

- pick up from hotel 0730hrs – 0800hrs

- bus ride to Ayuthaya

- visit 2 ruined cities

- lunch included

- boat cruise back to Bangkok

Own DIY tour

- option for time of departure to and from the ancient city

- cheaper

- more sites to see

- guest houses in Ayuthaya offer boat tours

- choice of restaurant

- train ride maybe more scenic than bus ride

- can probably also opt for river cruise back to Bangkok

Ayuthaya sites:

- Wat Phra Si Sanphet (admission 30 Bhat): Claimed to be the most distinctive Ayuthaya architecture. This site served as the royal palace from the city's founding in 1350 until the mid-15^th century and then converted into a temple.

- Wihaan Phra Mongkhon Bophit (admission 30 Bhat): Largest seated Buddah in Thailand.

- Wat Phra Mahathat (admission 30 Bhat): houses the iconic image of Buddah's head being swallowed by tentacle-like tree roots

- There are 29 other sites in the area listed in Lonely Planet's yellow bible 'South East Asia on a Shoestring'

Eating:

- Baan Kun Phra: Also a guesthouse is a riverside terrace restaurant

- Phae Krung Kao: Floating restaurant

Head back to Bangkok

Evening

Dinner

Bangrak Area: Home to Muslim and Indian community

Naaz (dishes: 50 – 70 Bhat)

- dubbed to have the richest khao mok kai (chicken biryani)

- dessert: firni (Middle Eastern pudding spiced with coconut, almonds, cardamom and saffron)

OR

Royal Bangkok Sports Club & Lumphini Park Area:

Le Lys (dishes: 80 – 200 Bhat)

- classic Thai dishes

- breezy colonial-style house

- kaeng phet muu yaan bai cha-om (roast pork curry with acacia leaves)

Night out

Victory Monument Area: Near hotel and Skytrain station

Saxophone Pub & Restaurant

- reggae, rock, blues and jazz

- German beer-cellar

AND/OR

Patpong Area:

- a go-go

- ping pong show

Day 3 (Saturday)

City tour

Bangkok sites:

- Wat Phra Kaew (admission 200 Bhat 8:30am – 3:30pm): Temple of the Emerald Buddah which is actually made from jasper. Orange and green roof tiles, mosaic-encrusted pillars and marble pediments.

- Wat Pho (admission 20 Bhat 8am – 5pm): Oldest and largest temple in Bangkok.

- Wat Arun (admission 20 Bhat 9am – 4pm): Temple of Dawn named after the Indian god of dawn.

- Vimanmek Teak Mansion (admission 100 Bhat 9:30am – 4pm): World's largest golden teak building

Eating:

Phahurat Area: Near popular Wat sites

China town

- go figure

ATM Food Center

- Indian food-court

Royal India Restaurant (dishes: under 80 Bhat)

- considered one of the best Northern Indian cuisine

Notes:

Th Chakraphet (street): lined with Indian shops and restaurants

Sampeng Lane (street): jam-packed with useful and useless

Afternoon

Shopping

Getting lost

More tours

Evening

Dinner

Victory Monument Area: Near hotel and Skytrain station

Pickle Factory (dishes: 150 – 200 Bhat)

- prefect place to chill out for an evening

- has creatively topped pizzas

- dinner-party mood

- indoor sofa seating

- outdoor tables around a swimming pool

Night out

Th Sukhumvit Area:

Little Arabia

- Soi 3 (street)

- Lively cafés and sheesha bars

Q Bar

- clubbing

- has absinthe and 40 varieties of vodka

Day 4 (Sunday)

Ancient City tour

Samut Prakan's Ancient City (admission 300 Bhat, www.ancientcity.com)

- world's largest outdoor museum park

- home to 109 scaled-down replicas

- bikes for rent (50 Bhat)

- rarely crowded

AND/OR

Shopping

Chatuchak (8am – 6pm Sat & Sun)

- mother of all shopping markets

- take Skytrain to Mo Chit station, which looks over the market

AND/OR

River cruise

Mae Nam Chao Phraya:

- Bangkok was called 'Venice of the East'

- Take Chao Phraya River Express

Evening

Cultural show

AND/OR

Dinner

Th Sukhumvit Area:

Maha Naga (dishes 300 – 700 Bhat)

- deep-fried prawn rolls served with plum sauce and crispy vermicelli

- scallops in Thai-style gravy

- pork chops topped with papaya salad

Dessert

Tamarind Café (dishes 100 – 250 Bhat)

- Tamarind for divine desserts

- Home to F-Stop Gallery of photographs

- Artistic space

- Innovate fruit shakes

Night out

Back to:

Th Sukhumvit Area:

Little Arabia

- Soi 3 (street)

- Lively cafés and sheesha bars

OR

Banglamphu Area: central ghetto backpacker's area

- Th Khao San (street): main travelers' center

OR

Patpong Area:

- a go-go

- ping pong show

Day 5 (Monday)

Wrap-up

*****

* So my family decided to jump on the pinoy family bandwagon and head to Bangkok for Holy Week. Hoping to discover something beyond the typical package, I made this itinerary based on my yellow bible Lonely Planet's: "Southeast Asia on a Shoestring" and used some information from the Internet. F*ck that travel agency and do things on your own. No more useless factory tours and the ever popular half-day city tour. Pack your bag tara let's triptayo to Thailand!

*now let's see how things will turn out based on this...